Building on the design language of NMD S1, adidas Originals and Humanrace™ unveil NMD S1 RYAT, a boot that empowers wearers to walk their own path and stems from Pharrell Williams’
adidas is dealing with the problematic alignment with Kanye West. The billion-dollar Yeezy brand is in a state of limbo as the German based company deals with the antisemitic tirades and unpredictable behavior of Ye has placed the company on shaky ground with various communities. I’ve long discussed the problematic sponsorship and endorsement by brands of entertainers. adidas has always been at the core of some of Hip-Hop’s most vital moments. Run-DMC and Missy Elliot created incredible moments for the Trefoil, but Ye, he delivered a thirsty controversial segment to adidas. One rooted in fashion, hype and resale. This community doesn’t care what an entertainer does or says, they only care about the value of a sneaker. These are not the brand fans a company needs. adidas is now recognizing this, but they can’t pivot. With leadership changes on the horizon and no products really triggering the visceral response that Yeezy does, the Three Stripes are in a holding pattern.
Fortunately for adidas the change in season and the product in the release funnel includes the NMD S1 Ryat. I’ve long stated that adidas should have been leaning into their catalog and standing on their performance products and other influencers as opposed to relying so heavily on Kanye’s mercurial approach to collaboration. In the past, Pharrell played it a bit too safe and relied on a repetitious roll out of similar drops that included low-cost options like the Tennis HU which flamed out. Pharrell did what Ye claimed he wanted. There was an abundance of low-cost options that arrived from the HumanRace side. These items weren’t hyped and didn’t sell well, but there is a strange element in resale for brands like adidas. When the price is too low, it doesn’t resonate or become valued Pharrell’s previous product wasn’t heritage and his quiet, calm demeanor doesn’t drive interest.
But that same quiet, calm demeanor is exactly what’s needed from adidas at this moment, and pairing it with imagery of stealth and urban ninjas is an approach the brand should most definitely be invested in especially when the product is arriving at the correct time. The S1 Ryat “offers functional design in which every element and detail serves a purpose. The shoe’s upper is constructed from a mix of premium suede and leather overlays, while a rubberized TPU mudguard and toecap add to the shoe’s sense of utility. The design is completed with a Boost midsole for cushioning and a rugged outsole featuring Trefoil-shaped grip.”
Kanye has long flirted with postmodern/apocalyptic design, but in this S1 Ryat Pharrell appears to be sliding into the opening left by Yeezy as adidas figures out their arrangement with Ye. If this is the beginning of the Essentials uniform by Pharrell, with the correct allotment and marketing, the Three Stripes may find itself moving ahead without Kanye in a quietly aggressive, purposeful manner.