30 Years of Co-Opting, Ignorance and Growth | How Timberland Pimped Hip-Hop to a Billion Dollars

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7-24-2020 Update: I decided to dig deeper into Timberland and discovered that the company has been doing a lot of work. My post below created a dialogue with the team at Timberland and I’ve adjusted my position on this matter. This is an instance of “Good Trouble” with the potential for a better story. Read the post below and then click on this post to read about the work that has been done over the years:

The Stark Contrast of Timberland’s Quiet Support and Public Perception

In the process of reading and researching outdoor brands, racism, and the lack of diversity, I found two extremes: Merrell and Timberland. These companies have always catered to a primarily White demographic as outdoor sports apparel companies. Both companies share similar structures. Merrell operates under Wolverine Worldwide. Timberland was purchased by VF Corporation. Without having eyes and ears on the inside I can only utilize LinkedIn as a reference point for another comparison, employees. Both companies have very little diversity in their walls.

That’s where the comparisons end.

Merrell is an unknown entity to Black folks. On 7-7-20 I was shipping at a local UPS. An older Black woman was in line ahead of me (yes we were social distancing and had masks on, lol). The woman was wearing a pair of Merrell hiking shoes. I asked her where she got the shoes. She had on earpods. She asked the person on the phone where the shoes came from. As she explained that she needed better shoes and the shoes were a gift, I asked had she ever heard of the brand. She responded no. I told her about the articles on my site and that Merrell was an amazing and interesting brand. I shared the post below with her and told her about Merrell’s support of various Black outdoor programs.

Brands Continue to Say #BLM, a Company that Barely Has Black Customers Is Sharing These Stories 

When I arrived back to the office I looked at the engagement on LinkedIn for my discussion on Merrell. I thought about other outdoor brands and landed on Timberland as a company that I thought should be functioning like Merrell, but they should also have a host of Black employees. As much as Timberland “caters” to a primarily White audience, I knew the brand is similar to Nike in how Black America, in particular Hip-Hop culture has long supported the company. It only made sense that they would have at least a sprinkle of diversity. I mean, as the owner of multiple pairs of Timbs throughout my life, I thought I should take a minute to visit Timberland’s YouTube page and social media accounts to see what the position of the company was on social issues and #blacklivesmatter, it just made sense.

As an analyst of the sneaker industry, this was important to me because, like I said, I know how influential Hip-Hop has been in the growth of Timberland as a brand. I just knew that I would visit Timberland and see a company that was speaking out against injustice and they would have eloquent statements and evidence of considerable support for a variety of causes. Instead what I found was this post on Twitter:

It’s important to give this Tweet context. On LinkedIn, Timberland lacks diversity. I did a bit of digging and also found that in their design department they don’t have any diversity at all. Beyond design, their C-Suite lacks Black faces (please correct me if I’m wrong). I remember the ad above, so I took some time to research why it was created. Take a moment to watch this video:

If you don’t have time to watch let me summarize, in the 90’s Timberland saw amazing growth. How did a company making shoes for construction workers hit a billion dollars when construction workers weren’t buying multiple pairs? The Black dollar.

Take a moment and look back on the golden age of Hip-Hop and what you’ll find are numerous references to Timbs. In this video above, Daymond John explains how FUBU was born. The Tweet above about “Give Racism the Boot” was in response to the company’s own failure to acknowledge their Black and Brown consumers who gave the company the crossover appeal required for explosive growth.

Timberland remains a company that has accounts in both urban sneaker stores and in upscale sneaker stores. When they need a spike they create something connected to streetwear to get media coverage and a lift. Consider the brand’s collabs with chains like Jimmy Jazz and City Gear and you begin to see a pattern for the brand. When times get tough, rely on the Black dollar.

Timberland hasn’t made any significant statement and it seems that within VF Corporation they have completely different strategies for their companies. Vans is owned by VF and they display an acute awareness of social issues and the importance of diversity.

Timberland is tone deaf and it’s hurtful and frustrating.

The Tweet above was a recycled image from a campaign covering up their own racism in the 90s.

What has the company posted on Twitter or their site about social injustice?

NOT. A. F—Ing. THING.

Please tell me if I’m wrong?

Where Merrell has been advocating for Black and Brown people by supporting various causes without getting any love, or dollars, from Black and Brown folks, Timberland, a company that has thrived on the Black dollar, isn’t doing shit. I typically avoid cursing in posts, but as people protest injustice a company that doesn’t even get the Black dollar is creating campaigns that support Black women. That’s what Merrell is doing. You want to see what else Merrell is doing?

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Merrell continues to take a position as an ally. Which leads me to another point that carries this discussion back to Black people failing to be conscious consumers. As a people we tout the power of the Black dollar with proposed Black out days, but I’ve discussed this in previous posts, if the majority of African-Americans aren’t aware of their options as consumers Black out days don’t matter and companies like Timberland can continue to capitalize on the Black and Brown dollar without ever adjusting their hiring practices. The company was born as a White company catering to blue collar workers. The brand crossed over and has had years to practice policies of diversity and inclusion. It seems to me that they have opted to remain silent, but I can’t remain silent.

You might give Nas an anniversary Timb and think that equates to inclusion and support of the community. It does not. You might give Black influencers a 16-30 second spot on YouTube and that doesn’t mean anything. What you do is the volume control and your commodification of culture is coming through loud and clear.

 

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